Travel advisory

Zambia, covering an area of 752,615 sq km, lies at the lower end of Central Africa and is bordered by Namibia, Botswana, Zimbabwe, Malawi, Tanzania and Mozambique. It still remains fairly untouched by commercial tourist development and is a fantastic destination for exploring, birding, game-viewing and challenging off-road driving. Cultural heritage and pride is very important to the Zambian people and traditions have been maintained despite the impact of western ideals. Zambia is home to over nine million people, with seven major ethnic groups and over 73 language dialects, although English is the official language.

Topography and Climate
Zambia is landlocked and sits on a plateau that slopes to the south. The highest point in the country is the Mwanda Peak (2148m) which is found on the Malawian border. The main rivers that run through Zambia are the Zambezi, the Kafue and the Luangwa. There are 19 national parks and 31 game management areas which were created as “buffer-zones” around the parks.
There are three main seasons in Zambia:
• August to October – warm to hot and dry, best time for game-viewing as water is scarce.
• November to March – hot with thunder showers, excellent bird-watching season as migrants come from the north.
• April to July – dry, warm days, cold nights and early mornings, good game-viewing.

Health
Generally the standard of medical care is poor with equipment and medicines in short supply. There are private hospitals for those who can afford it. Visitors must protect themselves with malaria prophylactics. Consult your doctor before leaving as to the best course of medication. A yellow fever certificate is needed if you are travelling from anywhere else in Africa and a tetanus vaccination is advised although immigration officers rarely check health documents. Tap water in the major towns is safe to drink, but boil water before drinking in remote areas.

Crossing the Border
Visas are only necessary for non-Commonwealth visitors except Cyprus, Ghana, India, Nigeria, Sri Lanka and Pakistan. The exception to this is British citizens who now need a visa. Visa requirements are, however, constantly under review so it is best to check when planning your holiday. Prices of visas vary according to nationality but you can work on paying approximately US$25 for a single entry with a maximum stay of three months.
A lodge or camp site that is a registered Zambian tour operator, may issue guests on a prepaid visit, a ‘tourist manifest’, entitling them to obtain a free visa on entry into Zambia. This can be a considerable saving for visitors holding UK and some other passports.
Most borders are open from 6h00 to 18h00. If you are taking a car into Zambia without a carnet de pasage, a temporary import permit is free. Compulsory third party insurance must be obtained at the border at a relatively small cost.
On departing from Zimbabwe you will need the original or a certified copy of your vehicles papers, and should the vehicle be registered in someone else’s name, such as the bank, you will require a letter from that person entitling you to take the vehicle out of the country. Of late Zimbabwe officials have been asking for a police clearance for vehicles, check before departure.

Currency
The unit of currency is the Kwacha but many of the bigger lodges, hotels, restaurants and shops will accept international credit cards. Many of the lodges prefer to be paid in hard currency or travellers cheques. Money can be changed at Standard Chartered Bank or Barclays and at some hotels and shops. Although there is not much of a black market in Zambia you may be approached to change money, but it is not worth the risk. Foreign Exchange Bureaux in some of the larger towns may offer you a better rate than the banks. Banks are generally open between 8am and 2 or 3pm, Monday to Saturday, except Thursday when they close at noon and Saturday when they close at 11am.

The Roads
Generally the roads out of the main cities are quite poor and there is no AA or breakdown service in Zambia. Make sure you are prepared for any eventuality by carrying a range of tools, spare wheels and tubes and jerry cans with extra fuel and water. Many of the villages along the main routes offer tyre repair services but may not have spare tubes, patches or valves, so take your own.

Mvuu LODGE
Lower Zambezi River

Status
Driving skills: ★ (dry season)
★★★ (wet season)
Overlanding skills: ★★
Non-guided

Summary
Mvuu Lodge, ‘the place of the hippo’ lies on the banks of the Zambezi River in the Chiawa Game Management area. Getting to this remote destination by road is an adventure in its own right. Once there, you can explore the surrounds by following one of the several driving trails starting from the Lodge.

Difficulty AND experience required
The rainy season starts towards the third week of December and continues until early March.  During this period it is imperative to have a 4×4 with a winch and debogging equipment, and experience in vehicle recovery would be advantageous.

Number of vehicles
Minimum two vehicles during wet season.

time of year
Mvuu is open February to December.

time required
The trail to Mvuu Lodge will take one day.  Once at Mvuu Lodge you will require at least three days to explore the surrounds.

the trail
The dirt road to Mvuu from Chirundu is approximately 60km and can be traversed in a day in the wet season or in about two hours in the dry season.  As mentioned previously, debogging equipment is essential in the wet season.  Although some experience in this type of recovery would prove useful, the area is not totally remote, and help is always available from the villagers and other lodges who are all in radio contact with each other.  During the journey you will cross many riverbeds with steep entry and exit angles.  The riverbeds are usually dry, but are prone to flash floods during rainstorms.  Should you encounter flash floods, wait them out as the water usually subsides rapidly.  At the beginning of the dry season the road surface is normally deeply rutted as a result of the rains, but the condition gradually improves until a single 2×4 with diff locks and high ground clearance can easily traverse the terrain.

Accommodation
Luxury en-suite wooden lodges stand on stilts  overlooking the river.  Guests can choose between fully inclusive accommodation or self-catering.  Campsites are situated in close proximity to the lodges, and each is equipped with a private hot water shower, wash basin, flush toilet and braai area.

other Activities
Game drives in an open vehicle or boat rides along the Zambezi can offer the game lover exceptional reward. For the more dramatic experience try one to three day canoe safari down the river where crocodile and hippo surface the water line as you glide past.  The Zambezi is home to the renowned Tiger Fish, and keen fishermen may take up the challenge from the banks of the river or from a boat.  Hikers may follow trails that meander through a beautiful landscape boasting a wide variety of bird species and a rich abundance of indigenous trees. The less active visitor may simply laze at the poolside and enjoy the tranquility.

Facilities
All fuel and supplies for self-catering and camping must be brought in as limited supplies are available.  The nearest major centre in Zambia is Lusaka, 210km away.  On the Zimbabwe side of the border Kariba is 160km away.

how to get there
Pass through the border post at Chirundru or
Kariba, and follow the map provided.

organizing your trail
Contact the Mvuu Lodge South African office on Tel: 016 987 1837, Fax: 016 987 2655, Email: info@mvuulodge.com.

Website:www.mvuulodge.com or call Lyn on
083 628 7364 or Johan on 083 277 3031.

SOUTH EASTERN GAME RESERVES
Lower Zambezi and South Luanga National Parks

STATUS
Driving skills required: ★★
Overlanding skills required: ★★★
Non-guided

ROUTE
The trail starts in Kariba, Zimbabwe and heads into Zambia via Lusaka and east to the Lower Zambezi National Park and South Luangwa National Park. From there it returns to Lusaka and exits Zambia via Livingstone at the Victoria Falls.

SUMMARY
Zambia could one day replace Botswana as Southern Africa’s bush playground. It is remote, wild and a destination only suitable for the adventurous traveller. Distances are long and, although the road network is not as developed as Botswana’s, it is easy to follow and reasonably maintained. The people are Zambia’s biggest asset as their sometimes overwhelming friendliness knocked me off my feet.

DIFFICULTY AND EXPERIENCE REQUIRED
Some safari experience is recommended as some of the areas are very remote. Sound driving and recovery techniques will be needed if the trail is tackled in the wet season between November and March.

NUMBER OF VEHICLES
Two vehicles are recommended if the drivers have limited overlanding experience.

MINIMUM TIME REQUIRED
Ten days

INTRODUCTION
This trail serves as an introduction to Zambia and for many who follow this trail it will be the first occasion that they have crossed their vehicles over the Zambezi. The once held notion that Zambia is a foreboding place, unwelcoming to visitors (especially from South Africa) and is a country wracked by years of communist strife just isn’t true. Zambia welcomes visitors with open arms and everyone, including law officers and customs officials, seem concerned for their well-being.
In terms of facilities for low to mid budget travellers, the facilities are similar and often better than their wealthier neighbour Botswana. Tar roads are fair but gravel roads are unkept and rough. In the rainy season many of these roads are so deep in water that they remain impassable to anything but a unimog for months.

The Trail

Kariba
If you have never been to Kariba, the vastness of the lake is astounding as travel writers never quite manage to do justice to this massive volume of water. There are many activities to keep you busy in Kariba such as wilderness safaris, games drives, sundowner or full day cruises, fishing trips, water sports, canoeing adventures and walks. These activities can be arranged through the local lodges and safari companies.
Buffalo Safari Campsite is a great option to spend the night – head towards the dam wall and look out for the Buffalo Safari turning to the left, just after the Lake View Inn. Turn left and follow the signs. This is a posher campsite in that it has a view of the lake and there are also chalets and A-frames for those who don’t want to pitch a tent. It is fairly reasonably priced, but not quite as economical as the alternative Moth or Mopane Bay campsites which, we have been told, are sometimes overcrowded.

Crossing the border
From Buffalo Lodge it is about 21km to the border. Crossing from Zimbabwe into Zambia is usually a fairly simple operation and the people are friendly. After passport control you have to pass through customs who require a vehicle permit. This is acquired free of charge and you will be assisted in filling out the relevant forms as well as the register. South Africans don’t need a visa, but it is recommended that citizens of other Commonwealth countries check their visa status in current travel books. Should you require a visa, it can be obtained at the border without much hassle, but may prove to be a little costly. For example, UK citizens pay US$50, contact the camp you intend visiting in Zambia, and they should be able to issue you with a tourist manifest entitling you to a Free Visa on entry. The last item you must organise is third party insurance. This can also be obtained from a small hut to the right of the customs office. Get your vehicle insurance after passing through passport control. There are frequent road blocks throughout Zambia which will check for seat belts, two triangles, insurance papers and the roadworthiness of your vehicle.

Kariba – LOWER ZAMBEZI
Leaving the border, head in the direction of Lusaka. After approximately 40km you will reach Lusitu. The tar road is narrow with pot-holes in some places, clear and smooth in others as it winds its way through dense bush and lots of baobab trees. About 19km after Lusitu you will reach a T-Junction (GPS: 16 01 39S – 28 41 41E) which is the national road called the T2. Turn right towards Chirundu the other border post. The national road is generally good but there are very bad sections with deep holes that come up quickly, so speed must be kept down and the driver must stay alert. Watch out for oncoming traffic that may also be trying to dodge pot-holes.
There is a Bureau De Change on your right as you approach Chirundu border post where you can safely change your money at reasonable rates.
Heading towards Chirundu, look out for the Gwabi Lodge sign and turn left appox 100M before the border post, this is a short piece of tar road used by the trucks to the commercial clearing. Follow the Mvuu lodge map to The Lower Zambezi, all along the route you will follow the Mvuu Lodge signposts. This 60 km journey from Chirundu to Mvuu Lodge will take appoximately 2.5 hours in the dry season.
On leaving the Lower Zambezi, there a two ways to Luangwa, the more adventurous can go through the Lower Zambezi National Park which takes appoximately eight hours to the T4, or head back to Chirundu and take the tar road via
Lusaka.

Route via the park
Before starting this journey you must ensure that you have sufficient fuel and supplies.
As the journey takes appoximately eight hours, it is important for guests staying at Mvuu lodge to leave early and be at the Chongwe entrance of the Lower Zambezi National Park by 6:00 am, as no camping is allowed in the park, and any person not getting through the park in one day will be fined.
From Chongwe gate travel to Jeki airstrip about one and a half hours drive. After the airstrip the road will fork turn left DO NOT TAKE THE GOOD ROAD TO YOUR RIGHT. You will now be travelling through thick bush, cross the Chakeenga river and travel through Mapani woodland. The road will fork again at a spring (there should be plenty of game here) Turn left DO NOT TAKE THE GRADED RIGHT ROAD. To this point from the airfield it is a one hour drive.
From here to Makumba gate is through the escarpment and will take appox five hours if you do not get stuck.
GPS co-ordinates for Chakwenga T4 Lusaka Luwanga road *15 14 15S – 29 10 02E.

Most Camps in the Lower Zambezi, whether in the Game Management Area bordering the park (there are no fences) or in the park itself offer Game viewing by vehicle or by boat, Not unlike the mokoro in the Okavango, the best way of seeing the Zambezi is by canoe, safaris range from one the five days.
As the Zambezi is home to the famous Tiger Fish visitors must not miss the opportunity of catching the greatest fresh water fighting fish. All lodges practice catch and release.

Luxury camps in the Lower Zambezi include Mvuu Lodge – open February to December offering from fully inclusive to self-catering and exclusive camping. (Tel South Africa 016 987-1837), Chiawa Lodge – open March to Nov (Tel. Lusaka 288 290), Gwabe lodge – open all year (Tel. Lusaka 220 113), Royal Zambezi Lodge – open March to Nov (tel. Lusaka 223 952) and Kingfisher Lodge – open March to Nov (tel. Lusaka 262 456).

Chipata
Chipata is the gateway to the South Luangwa National Park and Malawi. It is a busy town, 559km from Lusaka. Petrol and diesel are available all the way. From Chipata the road to Mfuwe and the entrance to the South Luangwa National Park is 130km of badly maintained gravel. This road is reliable in all but the wettest months. Getting to the park from Chipata takes about three hours when the road is dry. If it is wet, triple this time, make sure you have debogging equipment and preferably travel with a winch-equipped vehicle that must travel behind.
Should you wish to attempt a short cut by taking the Petauke road to the park, be sure to have two or more vehicles and off-roading experience. Do not attempt this route in the wet season.

South Luangwa National Park
The Luangwa valley, one of Africa’s great wildlife sanctuaries, is created by the great rift valley below where it splits and one arm forms Lake Malawi and the other the Luangwa valley. South Luangwa National Park (9050 square km) is Zambia’s premier wildlife destination and may one day become popular with South Africans who are tired of the regular Botswana excursions. Entrance fees are reasonable and the people very friendly. Facilities for campers are basic and for the most part well maintained.
Luangwa is well appointed with camps for the well-heeled traveller but less so for the budget camper and adventure traveller in their own vehicles. Near the entrance to the park is Jake’s Flatdogs (the name reminds me of Oddball’s campsite in the Okavango) which has four comfortable self-catering chalets and a campsite with well-kept ablution facilities, a kitchen with cook, a bar and a take-away restaurant. Jake’s Flatdogs is open all year.
Another campsite, Wild­life Camp, a few kilometres to the west, offers camping, chalets and en-suite chalets, all at reasonable prices. There is a bar which also serves meals. The camp also offers game drives. Payment must be made in US-dollars. Camping out of the designated campsites is not permitted.
The game in Luangwa with its deep oxbow lagoons, open grass plains and thick riverine forest, is as plentiful as anywhere in Africa. There are 59 animal species and over 400 bird species. Big game abounds as well as antelope and wildebeest in their thousands. Unusual antelope include puku and letchwe, especially along the Luangwa River.  South Luangwa is vast and the tracks that take you into the park are for the most part, easy to negotiate and follow courses along the river.

North Luangwa National Park
The North Luangwa National Park is closed to vehicles, there are no facilities whatsoever and it remains a vast unspoilt Eden. Mark and Delia Owens, of ‘Cry of the Kalahari’ fame, set up a camp in the reserve and are studying the effects of poaching. Their book is called: ‘Survivors Song: The Eye of the Elephant’.

Return to Lusaka
The next part of the trail returns to Lusaka on the same road you came out on, then onto Livingstone where the trail ends.
Once back in Lusaka head out of town on the main T2 in a southerly direction towards  Livingstone. About 5km outside of the city there is a castle and the Castle Supermarket on the eastern side of the road is a good place to refuel and stock up on supplies. You will then come to the town of Kafue a little after which you will cross the Kafue Gorge bridge. Keep a look out for the turning to Livingstone, as if you are coming from Lusaka it is not well sign posted (GPS co-ordinates: 15 51 00S – 28 14 57E). The turning is to the right.
If about 68km after taking the turn-off to Livingstone you reach the town of Mazabuka (15 51 30S – 27 45 29E) you are on the right road. Keep on the main road heading in a southerly direction. The road to Monze is quite good, fast tar, but deteriorates rapidly after Monze and becomes very bumpy tar to about Pemba, whereafter the road improves again. There are a number of campsites along this road, just be alert for signposts and turn-offs.
156km out of Mazabuka is the town of Choma which has a craft centre and the Gwembe Safari Campsite just outside of town. To find the campsite, take a right turn and drive for a few kilometres. When the road splits take a left and then at the next split take a right and follow the signs.
Departing from the Gwembe Safari Campsite, it is a 184km stretch to Livingstone. Livingstone has two hotels and camp-sites and petrol and diesel are available. The view of Victoria Falls is less impressive from the Livingstone side, but still spectacular. Entrance to the falls varies with the currency you are paying in, but it is more expensive on the Zimbabwean side. The border crossing back into Zimbabwe is straight forward but you cannot stop to take photographs of the spectacular view from the bridge. On the Zimbabwe side there are large curio markets with very enthusiastic salesmen, as well as a lot of activities such as bungi jumping and river rafting

Organising Your Trail
For more information contact the Zambian National Tourist Board, Lusaka: Century House, Cairo Road, Tel: 260 1 229 087/90 or Johannesburg: 1st floor Finance House, Ernest Oppenheimer Road, Bruma Lake. Tel: 27 11 622 9206/7, 622 7635.
One of the best guide books to Zambia is the  Lonely Planet guide on Malawi, Mozambique and Zambia by David Else.